Tea is an evergreen plant of the Camellia family grown in approximately 30 countries around the world. However, the best teas are grown in only five countries: Sri Lanka, China, Taiwan, India and Japan, with India being the largest producer. With a few exceptions, the other 25 or so countries that grow tea produce fairly average tea for use primarily in teabags. Tea grows best in hot and humid conditions between 1,000 and 7,000 feet, with the higher elevation teas being the most esteemed. As with coffee there are several varietals of tea, the two most notable being Camellia Sinensis, grown primarily in China and Taiwan, and Camellia Assamica, grown in India, parts of Yunnan, China, Indonesia and Africa.

It takes approximately three to five years for a tea bush to reach maturity. Leaves are picked as the new shoots (or “flush”) are beginning to grow. Most teas are made from the tip bud and two young leaf sets. (Having said that, Japanese Gyokuro uses only the tip bud, and Bancha, which is harvested later in the season, uses the more mature leaves left below the tip bud and young leaf sets.) Several factors affect the overall flavor of a particular tea, including the varietal, soil nourishment, elevation, freshness and, most notably, processing techniques. Certain varietals are more suitable to particular processing styles.

Teas of the Camellia family can be divided into four categories: black, green, white and oolong. All of these teas come from the same family of plants. Although there are numerous cultivars within the Camellia family, it is primarily their processing that distinguishes them. The least processed of all tea is the white. Made from medium-leaf “Fujian” tea bushes that yield silvery white sprouts and leaves, white tea is harvested only once a year in early spring. After harvesting, white tea is put through a unique, centuries-old withering process. While other teas are then fired and rolled, the processing of white tea stops there. White tea is very low in caffeine and tends to be less bitter and more forgiving of water temperature and brewing time than other teas.

Green tea is processed in such a way as to preserve its natural green color. Shortly after harvesting it is heated to prevent leaf oxidation. Traditional Japanese teas undergo a steaming process that results in a delicate buttery flavor. Chinese green teas can be steamed as well, but are also pan-fried, dry stir fried or dry roasted, coal basket or oven cured, or sun dried. After heating the tea is rolled to break up the leaf cells, and then dried until crisp.

Black tea undergoes a lengthy process which promotes oxidation, giving the tea its characteristic black color. After harvesting the leaves are spread on withering racks so as to evaporate the water in the leaf, which makes the leaf pliable like soft leather gloves. It then passes to the rolling machinery where it is rolled to break up the cells to release their remaining juices. The teas essential oils develop as these juices are exposed to the air. The leaves emerge from the rollers as twisted lumps with are then broken up by coarse mesh sieves and are then taken to the fermenting rooms. The process of oxidation which starts on the withering racks is completed here. The leaves are spread on tile or cement floors in a cool damp atmosphere. As they absorb oxygen they turn a bright copper color. At this point the leaves are dried, or fired, by a continuous blast of hot dry air in an automatic tea drier.

Oolong is a compromise between green and black tea. The green leaves are allowed to oxidize to a certain degree before drying. As such, it shares taste characteristics of both green and black teas. Traditionally, certain tea producing areas focus on producing only certain types of tea. For example, Japan produces only green teas. India produces predominantly black teas. While Taiwan produces a variety of teas, it is most commonly known for its oolong. China is one country that commonly produces all four types of tea.